Appetizers, entrées, and desserts at America's chain restaurants are making Americans fatter and sicker, and the trendy thing for chains to do is to make already bad foods even worse, according to the Center for Science in the Public Interest. In its latest “Xtreme Eating” report, the Washington, D.C.-based advocacy group says the restaurant industry is showing few signs of restraint or responsibility in the face of America's epidemic of obesity and diet-related disease since it issued its first report in 2007. The report highlighted foods ranging from half racks of ribs promoted as side orders to steak and deep-fried blobs of macaroni and cheese served with creamy marinara sauce and more cheese.

 

“Would you like an entrée with your entrée?” ask the Jayne Hurley, the Center for Science in the Public Interest’s senior nutritionist, referring to Olive Garden's Tour of Italy, where diners can pile Lasagna, Chicken Parmigiana, and Fettuccine Alfredo onto one very large dinner plate.

 

The center is calling on Congress to pass legislation requiring menu labeling similar to measures enacted in California, Massachusetts, Nashville, New York City, Philadelphia; and Portland, Oregon. Bills in Oregon and Connecticut have passed and are awaiting governors' signatures.

 

In May, Senator Tom Harkin, a Democrat from Iowa, and Democratic Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro of Connecticut introduced the Menu Education and Labeling Act, which would require big restaurant chains to post calories on menu boards and list calories, saturated plus trans fat, carbohydrates, and sodium on printed menus. It would apply to the standardized items at restaurants with more than 20 outlets, and not to custom orders or daily specials.

 

“Ultimately, Americans bear personal responsibility for their dining choices,” says Margo G. Wootan, nutrition policy director for the center. “But you can’t exercise personal responsibility if you don’t have nutrition information when you order. Who would expect 2,800 calories in a dessert?”

 

Menu labeling has proven popular and useful in the jurisdictions that have implemented it, the center says. In a survey of New Yorkers, 82 percent of respondents said that seeing the numbers affected their choices. Though the industry tried to challenge New York's menu labeling law in court, it lost, and its prospects for challenging other laws may become dimmer still.

 

Most people should limit themselves to about 2,000 calories, 20 grams of saturated fat, and 1,500 mg of sodium per day. The center’s publication Nutrition Action says it will issue annual Xtreme Eating awards. Among the recipients of this year’s awards are:

 

Red Lobster Ultimate Fondue: “Shrimp and crabmeat in a creamy lobster cheese sauce served in a warm crispy sourdough bowl.” The item is crammed with 1,490 calories, 40 grams of saturated fat, and 3,580 mg of sodium.

 

Applebee's Quesadilla Burger: A bacon cheeseburger inserted into a quesadilla. The dish consists of two flour tortillas, two kinds of meat, two kinds of cheese, pico de gallo, lettuce, and a previously unknown condiment called Mexi-ranch sauce, plus fries, gives this item 1,820 calories, 46 grams of saturated fat, and 4,410 mg of sodium. Applebee's invites customers to top the fries with chili and still more cheese.

 

Chili's Big Mouth Bites: Four mini-bacon-cheeseburgers served on a plate with fries, onion strings, and jalapeno-ranch dipping sauce. Like the sliders available at other chains, Chili's Big Mouth Bites can be an appetizer or an entrée. The entre delivers 2,350 calories, 38 grams of saturated fat, and 3,940 milligrams of sodium.

 

The Cheesecake Factory Chicken and Biscuits: Nutrition Action calls it “discomfort food.” It advises that diners who wouldn't eat an entire eight-piece bucket of KFC Original Recipe plus 5 biscuits shouldn’t order this. This dish carries 2,500 calories.

 

Other winners of the dubious distinction of the Xtreme Eating awards appear in the June issue of Nutrition Action.